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09-05-2018, 08:59 AM | #2 |
clickclick Loyal Site Supporter
Join Date: May 2016 Location: East Coast Posts: 2,920 | Why not just use D-76? https://www.freestylephoto.biz/1464817-Kodak-D-76-Film-Developer-to-Make-1-Gallon |
09-05-2018, 09:04 AM | #3 |
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian
Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery | Albums Posts: 42,007 | Freestyle sells something called Clayton F76 that is claimed to give results similar to D76. I have never used it, but it might be worth giving a try since it is not that expensive. Clayton F76 Plus Film Developer - 1 Quart | Freestyle Photographic Supplies Steve |
09-05-2018, 09:10 AM | #4 |
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian
Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery | Albums Posts: 42,007 | Originally posted by clickclick Why not just use D-76? Kodak D-76 Film Developer to Make 1 Gallon | Freestyle Photographic Supplies I can think of a couple of reasons:
Steve |
09-05-2018, 09:12 AM | #5 |
pres589 Site Supporter
Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Wichita, KS Photos: Albums Posts: 4,732 Original Poster | Originally posted by clickclick Why not just use D-76? Kodak D-76 Film Developer to Make 1 Gallon | Freestyle Photographic Supplies Wanting to work with liquid developer. Seems easier to measure out a small amount at a time and use as needed. Reading *opinions* online, it seems like trying to measure out powder developer for small batches of soup isn't so predictable and may not contain accurate ratios of the involved chemicals. I did read about Clayton F76 and it seemed interesting. That said, it might be half way between DD-X and D-76 as far as results are concerned. And that doesn't seem like a bad thing... I'm leaning towards F76 but wanted to ask here first. |
09-05-2018, 11:30 AM | #13 |
Alex645 Site Supporter
Join Date: May 2015 Location: Kaneohe, HI Photos: Albums Posts: 3,556 | Originally posted by pres589 what would be recommended for the other chemicals needed for traditional film development. Starting with B&W due to it seeming easier for a beginner vs. C-41. In addition to the developer, you're going to want to get: a) Stop Bath. Indicator stop baths are nice so you can see when they are exhausted, but if you don't have good ventilation, you may want to opt for the odor less variety. Arista, Kodak, Ilford are pretty equal. b) Rapid Fixer. Again, the key here is make sure it is a rapid fixer unless you enjoy spending extra time on your third tray pondering why you opted to save a few bucks in exchange for your time. I've used Clayton, Kodak, Arista, and Ilford. I can't get Clayton shipped to Hawaii, so I currently use Ilford Rapid Fixer. All these are fine for film and paper. c) If your water bills are not high, then you can skip this. But if you'd rather not waste water or money, then a hypo wash will reduce your wash times: Black and White Chemicals | Freestyle Photographic Supplies d) For your negs, you'll want a wetting agent like Kodak Photo-Flo. Get the smallest bottle. It will last a lifetime due to the high dilution ratio. Black and White Chemicals | Freestyle Photographic Supplies |
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